Here is an email I got from an actual employee of GT:
If the bike frame was manufactured at the Santa Ana CA facility, the first three or four digits of the serial number should be letters abbreviating the model or size of the frame such as 'XL', 'XXL', CR24, or something like that.
The next part of the serial number is eight numeric digits. The first four numbers should be a two digit month followed by a two digit year.
Xxxxx = numbers probably indicating a sequential manufacturing number during the fortnight. EXAMPLE: GD706959 was the 6,959th frame manufactured during the 4th fornight of 1987. The serial number format appears to be started in 1987 and is known to extend beyond 1989 on Giant branded models, though no Nishiki examples have been reported to date. Serial: GP835580; Other serial/registration/sticker: Number is very hard to see underneath bottom bracket; Manufacturer: Nishiki Model: Blazer; Primary colors: Green Wheel diameter: 26in (Wide tire) Frame Material: Steel; Distinguishing features. Nishiki bicycles from the late 1970's through the early 1990's represent some of the best of the 'UJBs' (universal Japanese bicycles) sold in the USA during that time. My first 'good' road bike was an '86 Nishiki Prestige, and I still don't know if selling it was the right thing to do.
The last four digits are the serialization digits 0000 to 9999 depending on what number the frame was of the years production.
If the frame was made overseas in Taiwan, it gets more complicated. If the number starts with a K, the frame was made by Kinesis.
That's the only one I remember off the top of my head.
There were at least four companies in Taiwan that made the GT lines :
Robinson, Dyno, Powerlite and Auburn included)
The first digit would be a letter designating the factory that made the frame. There might also be a second letter digit specifying the factory that assembled the bike, if applicable. The model and year of production was also coded by a letter, so you won't be able to spot a two digit month and two digit year.
Before I left, I was writing a specification to standardize all of the serial numbers because GT was starting to send most of its US production to other US fabrication shops.
The information might also come in handy for deciphering other makes because the factories in Taiwan make bikes for a lot of different companies.
I am tinkering around with the idea of starting to make my own frames, kind of on a 'one-off' basis. I am also teaching welding at a local community college.
By the way, did I tell you that the guy ran GT's in house fabrication for the last ten years (he recently retired) was none other than Gilbert Axt. Who? Do you remember Race, Inc.? That was Gilbert.
He also did the original PK Ripper for SE Racing. History, man.
It might be a really cool thing if I can track down Gilbert now and interview him for you.
THAT is the kind of stuff that belongs in the BMX Museum!
Before I left, I was writing a specification to standardize all of the serial numbers because GT was starting to send most of its US production to other US fabrication shops.
The information might also come in handy for deciphering other makes because the factories in Taiwan make bikes for a lot of different companies.
I am tinkering around with the idea of starting to make my own frames, kind of on a 'one-off' basis. I am also teaching welding at a local community college.
By the way, did I tell you that the guy ran GT's in house fabrication for the last ten years (he recently retired) was none other than Gilbert Axt. Who? Do you remember Race, Inc.? That was Gilbert.
He also did the original PK Ripper for SE Racing. History, man.
It might be a really cool thing if I can track down Gilbert now and interview him for you.
THAT is the kind of stuff that belongs in the BMX Museum!
Nishiki Serial Number Database Bike Seat
Later. I'll write you when I get a chance. Dan Garcia
and here is the updates, thanks to love thegoose! (Michael S)
well we get a good bit of gt serials that could be identified by the owner, if they only had the tips that some of us have learned, so i will post what i know, and anyone with more knowledge can add to it..so here we go.
here is an example to go by. on the dropout you have 'M1' followed by '08922198'..this one is simple.
M1 stands for 'mach one' that is your model gt.
it can also be a 'I' for interceptor and so on.
next on the serial is '0892' this is easy to decode too,
08 means 8th month, which would be august.
then you have '92' next in the lineup, this would be 1992
the last 4 digits, are your build number, this one would be the 2,198th one built.
Here is another example. if your serial is KGCG2297 this one gets a little complicated. but still easy once you learn the code to it.
the first letter is who made the frame itself, in this case it would be 'Kenisis', an overseas company.this could be replaced by another letter but at least we know what that one is there for.
next is the letter 'G'..this isnt always there, but if so, this is where it was assembled, (ever notice the built in usa sticker on your gt or dyno?) this is what that letter is there for. it wasnt made here, but was built here.
next is the letter 'C'..C is the 3rd letter in the alphabet, and march is the 3rd month, so march is the build month.
next is the letter 'G' this is the year. G is the 7th letter in the alphabet,
so this would be a 1987.
here is one more..your serial resembles this:f6030578.
to start, if you have a 'baseball' looking stamp behind your serial, this frame was made overseas...no its not a pacific, so dont cry, or get mad...and lets continue.
on this serial, the first number is the last digit of the year, so 6 stands for 1986
next is '03'....this is the third month..which is march.
so you have a gt built in march of 1986.
but still use the museum as a guide to id the frame, cause sometimes you can find the year, but getting a posotive id on the model isnt possible without knowing which style frame you have.
this doesnt apply to new gt's, but hopefully some people with info on those will chime in. this isnt always going to match your serial, you may have a 'fake'..its not likely but it happens. also on earlier models this can differ. this is for the 2 most popular style serial's i see on here. also, common sense tells you that if you have a suspected 'gt' frame, look it up and compare it in the musuem, knowing which style frame you have will help with the process of id'ing your bike with the serial, especially if the serial has some damage that prevents you from getting the full number.
hopefully this bit of info can be used for everyone, and this will save you from those late nights sitting around waiting for a response to your post looking for an answer to the idendity to your gt...although i do feel smart and proud when i can answer these posts. well, thats it for me, if anyone else has info on serials or if you see a mistake in this guide, tell me so i can edit it. happy holidays people.
well we get a good bit of gt serials that could be identified by the owner, if they only had the tips that some of us have learned, so i will post what i know, and anyone with more knowledge can add to it..so here we go.
here is an example to go by. on the dropout you have 'M1' followed by '08922198'..this one is simple.
M1 stands for 'mach one' that is your model gt.
it can also be a 'I' for interceptor and so on.
next on the serial is '0892' this is easy to decode too,
08 means 8th month, which would be august.
then you have '92' next in the lineup, this would be 1992
the last 4 digits, are your build number, this one would be the 2,198th one built.
Here is another example. if your serial is KGCG2297 this one gets a little complicated. but still easy once you learn the code to it.
the first letter is who made the frame itself, in this case it would be 'Kenisis', an overseas company.this could be replaced by another letter but at least we know what that one is there for.
next is the letter 'G'..this isnt always there, but if so, this is where it was assembled, (ever notice the built in usa sticker on your gt or dyno?) this is what that letter is there for. it wasnt made here, but was built here.
next is the letter 'C'..C is the 3rd letter in the alphabet, and march is the 3rd month, so march is the build month.
next is the letter 'G' this is the year. G is the 7th letter in the alphabet,
so this would be a 1987.
here is one more..your serial resembles this:f6030578.
to start, if you have a 'baseball' looking stamp behind your serial, this frame was made overseas...no its not a pacific, so dont cry, or get mad...and lets continue.
on this serial, the first number is the last digit of the year, so 6 stands for 1986
next is '03'....this is the third month..which is march.
so you have a gt built in march of 1986.
but still use the museum as a guide to id the frame, cause sometimes you can find the year, but getting a posotive id on the model isnt possible without knowing which style frame you have.
this doesnt apply to new gt's, but hopefully some people with info on those will chime in. this isnt always going to match your serial, you may have a 'fake'..its not likely but it happens. also on earlier models this can differ. this is for the 2 most popular style serial's i see on here. also, common sense tells you that if you have a suspected 'gt' frame, look it up and compare it in the musuem, knowing which style frame you have will help with the process of id'ing your bike with the serial, especially if the serial has some damage that prevents you from getting the full number.
hopefully this bit of info can be used for everyone, and this will save you from those late nights sitting around waiting for a response to your post looking for an answer to the idendity to your gt...although i do feel smart and proud when i can answer these posts. well, thats it for me, if anyone else has info on serials or if you see a mistake in this guide, tell me so i can edit it. happy holidays people.
05-04-2014, 08:45 PM
Nishiki Mountain Bike Models
Nishiki International 58cm $200- obo cash pick up only
[attachment=5086]
[attachment=5087]
[attachment=5088][attachment=5089]
[attachment=5090]
[attachment=5091]
[attachment=5092]
[attachment=5093]
[attachment=5094]
[attachment=5095]
1976 Vintage Nishiki International, 58cm c-t seat tube, 57mm c-c top tube, 45cm chain stays. This bike was originally sold by Cycle Tree in Sunnyvale in June 1977. It is serial number KF32043; which indicates 32043rd frame manufactured in 1976 for the USA market by Kawamura in Japan.
From: http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/390318-nishiki-serial-number-database.html
Serial number format XYZZZZZ where:
X is a letter indicating the market using the following codes:
K = USA (pre 1985)
Y is a letter indicating the last digit of the manufacturing calendar year, where A =1, B = 2, C = 3… J = 0. Exception is letter S, used on all frames prior to 1975.
ZZZZZ is a five or six digit number, apparently representing a sequential frame manufacturing number for the year (or era in the case of pre 1975 frames)
The bike has a chrome-molybdenum steel alloy frame (aka cro-mo, cr-mo). It is takes a 26.6mm diameter seat post, has 27” (ISO630) Araya alloy rims, 36 spoke Shimano hubs, Suntour derailleurs, Suntour 5 speed 14-34T freewheel, Sugino 3 piece cotterless crank with 40-52T rings, Dia-Comp center pull brakes, Suntour barcon friction shifters and Suntour cable stops.
There are many scratches in the paint, and some of the decals are lifting. The lugs are very nice, and the head badge is beautiful.
The bike is ride able, but the brakes are marginal by modern standards – but as good as they were when new. This would make a great touring bike project – the frame geometry is near perfect for touring or long haul commuting.
[attachment=5086]
[attachment=5087]
[attachment=5088][attachment=5089]
[attachment=5090]
[attachment=5091]
[attachment=5092]
[attachment=5093]
[attachment=5094]
[attachment=5095]
1976 Vintage Nishiki International, 58cm c-t seat tube, 57mm c-c top tube, 45cm chain stays. This bike was originally sold by Cycle Tree in Sunnyvale in June 1977. It is serial number KF32043; which indicates 32043rd frame manufactured in 1976 for the USA market by Kawamura in Japan.
From: http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/390318-nishiki-serial-number-database.html
Serial number format XYZZZZZ where:
X is a letter indicating the market using the following codes:
K = USA (pre 1985)
Y is a letter indicating the last digit of the manufacturing calendar year, where A =1, B = 2, C = 3… J = 0. Exception is letter S, used on all frames prior to 1975.
ZZZZZ is a five or six digit number, apparently representing a sequential frame manufacturing number for the year (or era in the case of pre 1975 frames)
The bike has a chrome-molybdenum steel alloy frame (aka cro-mo, cr-mo). It is takes a 26.6mm diameter seat post, has 27” (ISO630) Araya alloy rims, 36 spoke Shimano hubs, Suntour derailleurs, Suntour 5 speed 14-34T freewheel, Sugino 3 piece cotterless crank with 40-52T rings, Dia-Comp center pull brakes, Suntour barcon friction shifters and Suntour cable stops.
There are many scratches in the paint, and some of the decals are lifting. The lugs are very nice, and the head badge is beautiful.
The bike is ride able, but the brakes are marginal by modern standards – but as good as they were when new. This would make a great touring bike project – the frame geometry is near perfect for touring or long haul commuting.